Two Versions of Syrniki: Russian Fresh-Cheese Pancakes

Traditional Syrniki (Russian farmer’s-cheese pancakes)

Recipe adapted from Ararat Park Hyatt Moscow hotel

Makes about 10 three-inch pancakes (the recipe can be halved successfully)

Time: 45 minutes unattended; 20 minutes active work

1/4 cup raisins

1/2 cup hot tea (black or breakfast tea, not green tea; can be reheated leftover tea)

2 7.5-oz packages farmer’s cheese (not salt-free)

2 large eggs

3 Tablespoons flour

2 Tablespoons cream of wheat or semolina

1 Tablespoon granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon fine salt

Neutral oil for frying (a Russian might use sunflower oil)

1. Soak the raisins in hot tea to cover, for about 45 minutes. Drain well and lightly squeeze out surplus liquid. This may be done well in advance.

2. Using a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, combine the farmer’s cheese and eggs. Blend in the flour, cream of wheat, sugar and salt, then add the raisins. The mixture should be thick enough to hold its shape; if it is too liquid, stir in a little more flour.

3. Using a 1/4-cup measure, scoop blobs of the mixture onto a plate or cookie sheet, and hold this in readiness. This, while optional, will avoid a last-minute rush to get the syrniki from the mixing bowl into the pan.

4. Heat a non-stick skillet over medium heat (a 12-inch skillet will hold five or six pancakes; use two or cook in two batches). Alternatively, heat a non-stick electric griddle to 300 to 325 degrees F. Add minimal oil, just to slick the surface, and if using a skillet, decrease the heat to medium-low or low: these need time to cook through as the surface browns.

5. Using a spoon or your fingers, add the portions of syrniki mixture to the hot pan or griddle; with the back of a moistened spoon, flatten them into three-inch discs a scant half inch in thickness. Cook slowly until golden brown on one side (five to six minutes), then turn and do the same for the other side (about five minutes), adding a teaspoon of additional oil if necessary – which it probably will not be. If using a skillet, adjust the heat as necessary to keep the pancakes gently browning, but not too quickly. If cooking in batches, hold the cooked syrniki in a 150-degree oven, loosely covered with foil, or, better, serve them as they come out of the pan.

Serve with sour cream, Russian style jam (see recipe) or honey. Place the toppings in bowls rather than directly on the pancakes so that everyone can choose the accompaniment they like for each syrnik – or for each bite. Remember: they’re good plain too.

Syrniki – “New Russia” style

Note: We ate modernized syrniki like these at Moscow’s Vogue Café, where they were cooked in circular molds to keep them evenly thick with perfectly vertical sides. At home, I gently placed the batter into the pan without spreading it; gravity did the rest, and the pancakes remained nice and thick, and lighter than traditional syrniki. If you want to modernize these even further, you could add a little grated lemon zest to the batter, but I prefer the clear flavor of the cheese to remain at the fore.

Makes about 10 three-to-four-inch pancakes (the recipe can be halved successfully)

Time: 25 minutes active work

4 large eggs

2 7.5-oz packages farmer’s cheese (not salt-free)

4 Tablespoons flour

1 Tablespoon granulated sugar

1/4 teaspoon fine salt

Neutral oil for frying (a Russian might use sunflower oil)

1. Separate the eggs, being sure not to get any yolk into the whites (if you fail, use a piece of shell to fish out the errant yolk). Transfer the whites into a large bowl for whisking, or into the bowl of an electric mixer.

2. Add the farmer’s cheese, egg yolks, flour, sugar and salt to the work bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Process until creamy smooth, scraping down the sides with a rubber spatula from time to time. It can a minute or more to purée the cheese thoroughly, so be patient. Scrape into a mixing bowl.

3. Add a pinch of salt to the egg whites and whisk them (or beat them with an electric mixer) until they form stable peaks but still remain smooth and glossy. Stir about a third of the beaten whites into the cheese mixture to loosen it, then fold in the remainder with a rubber spatula.

4. Heat a non-stick skillet over medium heat (a 12-inch skillet will hold four or five pancakes; use several, or cook in batches). Alternatively, heat a non-stick electric griddle to 300 to 325 degrees F. Add minimal oil, just to slick the surface, and, if using a skillet, decrease the heat to medium-low or low: these need time to cook through as the surface browns.

5. Using a 1/4 cup measure or ladle, add portions of batter to the hot pan or griddle. Do not flatten them: they will spread into reasonably thick discs on their own. (If you have three-inch tart rings and feel like using them, you can confine the batter using these, lightly oiled.) Cook slowly until golden brown on one side (around five minutes), then turn and do the same for the other side (another five minutes or thereabouts). Adjust the heat as necessary to keep the pancakes gently browning, but not too quickly. If cooking in batches, hold the cooked syrniki in a 150-degree oven, loosely covered with foil, though these are best eaten fresh out of the pan.

Serve with the same accompaniments as for traditional syrniki (see recipe above).